Holistic healing

Wild at heart: stories from a South African spa…

Jini Reddy gets close to nature during a visit to Fordoun Spa in the wilds of South Africa

Jini Reddy gets close to nature during a visit to Fordoun Spa in the wilds of South Africa
I’m in a darkened hut, and the man sitting opposite me is shaking a leather pouch of ‘bones’ (bits of shells, jaguar and crow’s teeth and the odd animal bone) onto the floor. He peers at them intently – they are a divination tool – while I hold my breath. Then, he points to the scattered objects, and launches into some uncannily accurate remarks about my life, before making one or two hair-raising predictions.

The jovial soothsayer is Dr Elliot Ndlovu, a sangoma, zulu spiritual healer and Inyanga – in other words a medicinal healer. He is a director at Fordoun, one of South Africa’s top-rated spas (and has even travelled as far as LA to give readings to a bevy of A-list stars in the lead-up to last year’s Oscars.)

Located on a former dairy farm in the gorgeous rolling hills of Kwazulu Natal province’s Midlands, and surrounded by a working beef cattle farm, Fordoun is not your average wellbeing escape. It’s family-owned and its motto is ‘Ubuntu’, a Zulu phrase that roughly translates as ‘treat others as you yourself would like to be treated’. It shows too: from the minute I arrive, I am greeted with genuine warmth by the staff.

My villa, one of just 17, is in rustic-looking buildings that used to be part of a dairy farm. It’s got all the usual mod cons though, including underfloor heating, if you come in winter, and a giant TV screen that I vow not to turn on. (Far nicer to listen to the cry of the mating peacocks that perch, god-like on the villa roofs.)

I arrive at lunch, and after a scrumptious Thai chicken salad in Skye, Fordoun’s restaurant, I make a beeline for the spa, which features the usual assortment of wraps, facials and massages but with an African twist: many of them include concoctions and oils drawn from the indigenous healing plants in the impressive on-site garden.

The African experience

After using the gym and pool, I have my first treatment, the African Experience. Lisa, the therapist, has me inhaling an oil extracted from the artemesia plant, known for its ability to clear sinuses, congestion, colds and coughs. Next, she smothers me in a cleansing and exfoliating rasul clay, which Elliot later tells me is gathered from a mountain in the Drakensberg range under a full moon. (Apparently, as gravitational pull is stronger during a full moon, nutrients rise to the top layer of clay.) While my body is absorbing its goodness, Lisa gives me the most delicious scalp massage. After I shower off, there’s another massage using heavenly herbal compresses, containing freshartemesia herbs – bliss.

My next treatment is a Nduku Nduku massage, which is administered with wooden ‘knob-kerry’ sticks, traditionally a Zulu warrior’s weapon. On my back, they feel like hot stones and deliver a deep, penetrating massage. That evening, I’m in too cosy a mood for formal dining, so I order room service – delicious gorgonzola fritters with rocket and mushroom salad, and a huge roasted trout stuffed with vegetables – before conking out on the huge bed.

Flower-filled paradise

In the morning, after a bowl of muesli, I head off for my consultation with the sangoma. “My ancestors came to me in dreams and visions, and it is they who led me to my calling as a healer,” says Elliot, after my reading. In his vast garden, among the 130 or so healing plants, is the intriguingly named Wild Dagga, used to cure skin disorders, along with Crinum, a fertility-boosting plant and the immune-boosting African Potato plant.

In the afternoon, I take a lovely hike to a bird and flower-filled paradise on the vast property, part of which happens to be a (now protected) breeding habitat for the endangered long-billed Wattled Crane and Oribi, a small antelope, one or two of which I am lucky to spot.

There are all sorts of activities that Fordoun can arrange, from ballooning, to trout fishing, to visits to game reserves, and ulu villages – but I plump for riding on a nearby estate. Riding across the veld, under a blue sky is the perfect end to my all-too brief, but deeply nourishing and reviving stay in a spa well worth crossing continents for.

Top escapes

If you like the sound of this, then why not check out one of these other top spas and wellness centres in South Africa?

Cybele Forest Lodge and Health Spa

Situated in the heart of Mpumalanga, 420km east of Johannesburg, this charming farm house offers a place to relax and recharge in a stunning setting. Enjoy a relaxing walk in the 300 acres of lush forest, or simply lie by the pool and breathe in the heady scents of frangipani and gardenia. With Kruger National Park 40km away, Cybele is conveniently situated for guests wanting to explore the area. Why not treat yourself to a helicopter ride or hot air balloon safari to take in the beautiful surroundings?

Visit cybele.co.za for more details.

Bushmanskloof Wilderness Reserve and Wellness Retreat

This stunning retreat is just 270km from Cape Town, located at the foothills of the Cederberg mountains. With open plains, rock formations, cascading waterfalls and a plethora of flora and fauna, the spa is a haven of wellness and holistic healing. Choose from a range of pampering and restorative treatments which are complemented with unique products made from indigenous rooibos, flowers and plants. The delicious organic cuisine, breathtaking dining venues and luxurious accommodation – including just 16 rooms and suites – make this Natural Heritage Site a great place to unwind and relax. Guests can choose to discover the wonders of nature, pick from a wide range of outdoor activities or do simply nothing but enjoy the peace and tranquillity.

Visit bushmanskloof.co.za.

Karkloof Spa

Perched in the hills, amidst Africa’s indigenous forests, and 24km from Pietermaritzburg, Karkloof Spa is a five-star wellness destination. Surrounded by towering cliffs, with the shimmering waters of the Albert Falls Dam in view, this spa and boutique hotel offer a luxurious setting in which to unwind. Guests can relax and recharge in the lavish surroundings or enjoy the exhilaration of walking, hiking,mountain biking and game driving amongst hino, buffalo, zebra and giraffe. With panoramic views and spacious surroundings, including 16 private villas, a romantic restaurant and glorious indoor and wraparound outdoor lounges, Karkloof Spa offers everything you could want for a relaxing break.

For more information visit karkloofspa.com.

Further information

Rainbow Tours (rainbowtours.co.uk; 0845 277 3330) offers stays at the Fordoun Hotel.

Article by

Jini Reddy

Article by

Jini Reddy