Wellbeing

Save the World with Your Wardrobe

Sustainable clothing brand Thought’s co-founder and creative director Rachel Kelly talks to us about the importance of organic clothing

As shops finally reopened their doors post-lockdown, consumers flocked to their favourite clothing stores, keen to ditch their jogging bottoms and jeans for something fresh and new. And honestly, when indulging in a bit of retail therapy, how many of us stop to think about where our clothes came from? But with water pollution, soil degradation and greenhouse gas emissions that come hand-in-hand with the production of nonorganic fabrics, is it time to consider something altogether more natural? We asked Rachel Kelly, co-founder and creative director of organic clothing brand Thought, why switching up our textiles could just save the planet.

What constitutes an organic garment of clothing?

In order to be classed as an organic fibre, the crops need to be grown through non-genetically modified plants, and without the use of any synthetic agricultural chemicals such as fertilisers or pesticides. The production also needs to promote and enhance biodiversity and biological cycles and protect farmers and workers. To have a fully organic garment is a more complex process, as every stage of the manufacturing cycle needs to also be organic, from dying and printing, through to the packaging and labelling that goes on the garment.

Why is using organic materials important ?

The primary importance of using organic materials is the way in which it benefits people and the planet. The crops aren’t treated with harmful pesticides, so this protects farmers, workers, consumers and wildlife ecosystems. At Thought, sustainability has been part of our DNA since 1995 and we choose all of our yarns with great care to ensure low environmental impact. We are constantly looking for new partnerships that help us achieve this. For 2020, we partnered with a supply chain in India to develop our first Fairtrade and fully GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) certified t-shirt collection. This ensures working conditions and wages comply with Fairtrade standards, and that the end product is 100 percent organic cotton, including the dyes and the wash, not just the fibres.

What’s the consumer benefit?

There are emotional benefits to be had, such as playing a part in minimising environmental impact through being able to make a choice about how your clothing impacts the planet. The physical benefits are equally as important – lack of harmful chemicals, and natural, breathable fibres, mean organic garments are incredibly gentle and kind to the skin.

How is the process different?

If we take organic cotton as an example, conventional cotton is generally grown as a mono crop, which can destroy soil quality and create a fragile ecosystem. It also uses synthetic fertilisers, which allow nitrogen to escape into the atmosphere, streams and groundwater, contaminating the water supply and contributing to the highest-impact greenhouse gas.

Organic cotton is grown in crop rotation, where other plants are sown to encourage biodiversity. This protects soil quality, minimises CO2 and preserves water through healthier soils that act like a sponge, soaking up water during floods and holding it for longer in times of drought. All in all, this means that organic cotton needs about 95 percent less ground water than conventional cotton. Coupled with the elimination of harmful pesticides and fertilisers, this leads to improved soil health, making it better for the farmers and their communities, and minimising its environmental footprint.

What different organic materials are available?

It’s getting better, but there are limited choices for consumers, with organic cotton being the most widely used and available. There are also those which are less available such as flax, also known as linen, and also organic hemp. The latter two are more difficult to source and less commercially available.

Why do organic clothes tend to be more expensive?

There are a lot of additional expenses attached to organic versus non-organic clothes. Firstly, the growing process is slower with a longer crop rotation. There is also additional investment to be certified at every stage of the supply chain, from farming, to spinning to printing, adding expenses to the garment and to the brands who sell the garments. At Thought, we feel it’s worth the investment because of the long-term benefits – that’s what sustainability is all about.

What should we look out for when shopping for organic clothes?

Always look for accreditations like GOTs and OCS (Organic Content Standard), which is usually on the labelling.

Any tips for upgrading to an organic wardrobe?

If you don’t have anything at all in your organic armoury I would start with the basics. Our Fairtrade and GOTS certified t-shirt collection would be a great place to start, as you can wear it close to your skin to get a feel for it but it’s also a really versatile essential. Once you’ve discovered that it washes better, lasts longer, and doesn’t bobble in the way that regular cotton can, you’ll feel ready to add a few more pieces. We have timeless organic cotton tops, super-soft denim and organic cotton dresses to add to the mix.